Through the Iris of the Sun

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja3LGFY1i0o


We are all merely reflections. Vibrations. Waves of energy. The structural composition of an atom is proportionately scale to that of our solar system. That is, in fact, the distance from electrons, nuclei, etc. is proportional to that of the distance of planets to our sun. Strange to think of it. We are part of an ongoing wave. Why do huge storms happen? Is it all just a coincidence or could it be OUR expectations manifesting into an epic swell event? Our minds, our thoughts are the film to this projection of reality. Similar vibrations are naturally drawn together in our Universe There are many nay sayers out there which confide in the comfort of societical views of "what is supposed to be possible" vs. "What COULD be possible". Maybe there are limitless possibilites. Maybe OUR minds are truly the one precious posession we have in this. KNOW the storm will come. KNOW the swell will be. Know you can fly. Believe you can make that barrel section.

Caged and burning for a shred sesh.

Secret Stash:

We all have one or two of our slabby secrets tucked away for that oh so special swell angle when everywhere else is less than mediocre...it's gems like this wave that keeps my hunger for exploration alive. Biggest payout I've had in years. Shot this after a 2.5hr session. Unfortunately I forgot my water housing so all you get to see is the aftermath of a 2.5hr barrel spree I won't soon forget. Not the best photo....but your mind can do the rest of the work. Wave starts slow and rollie then the face steps down into a steep wall of intense tubeness. Most waves didn't look makeable until you put on the gas and checked into the pocket.


Somewhere between Montauk, NY and Portland, ME

CENSORED!

Cabin Fever

get out And skate! Then surf!

W. T. F. !?!?

I'm not complaining. Personally the weather has been phenominal. Why are you reading this? I'm caged in a 6 x 8 foot cube until 5 p.m. every weekday. Sure I could squeeze a dawn session in, then again, buisiness and wetsuit stench don't mesh in too well. Hope everyone has been scoring. For the first time in my life I have the neccessity of being a "weekend warrior". I'm not happy about it but that just means training after work. Here's to long hours of Skateboarding and Yoga all for the betterment of my mind, body, soul, and surfing.
       I saw 60 degrees today 12/22/11 and THIS IS PHENOMINAL. All we are missing is a freakish Indo-esk swell event teamed with warm winds. The weather is shot. The surf HASN'T been huge and I am fiending for an insanely large faced wave to ride.

.....Not bad for my first day of vacation in nearly a year and a half....

First Surf Flick:

11-11-11 MAKE A WISH!

                                                                            A BIT HEAVY

5 hours

So Clean

Score.

There's nothing I can say other than "Thank You south of Boston!" While Rhode Island was flat as a lake this was happening. High tide was joined with an intense storm surge, the sun came out, and the wind tapered off mid day to leave us with a little N'oreaster fun. Entirely different beast than the sought after 'hurricane swells'. The sets were relentless. 5 wave sets upon 5 wave sets. Getting stuck on the inside was not fun but well worth the reward. Waves were absolutely everywhere!!!!

 It's a lot bigger than it looks.

 Smaller inside sets would bypass the outer reef and wedge up into some fast pumpable walls which were interacting with refraction that was chucking some good lips.

Later in the day, with the tidal switch, the swell cut down and the break was more in control and playful.

Waves

Shots from last week.

Katia

much more to come....

Feast Or Famine