Secret Stash:

We all have one or two of our slabby secrets tucked away for that oh so special swell angle when everywhere else is less than mediocre...it's gems like this wave that keeps my hunger for exploration alive. Biggest payout I've had in years. Shot this after a 2.5hr session. Unfortunately I forgot my water housing so all you get to see is the aftermath of a 2.5hr barrel spree I won't soon forget. Not the best photo....but your mind can do the rest of the work. Wave starts slow and rollie then the face steps down into a steep wall of intense tubeness. Most waves didn't look makeable until you put on the gas and checked into the pocket.


Somewhere between Montauk, NY and Portland, ME

CENSORED!

Cabin Fever

get out And skate! Then surf!

W. T. F. !?!?

I'm not complaining. Personally the weather has been phenominal. Why are you reading this? I'm caged in a 6 x 8 foot cube until 5 p.m. every weekday. Sure I could squeeze a dawn session in, then again, buisiness and wetsuit stench don't mesh in too well. Hope everyone has been scoring. For the first time in my life I have the neccessity of being a "weekend warrior". I'm not happy about it but that just means training after work. Here's to long hours of Skateboarding and Yoga all for the betterment of my mind, body, soul, and surfing.
       I saw 60 degrees today 12/22/11 and THIS IS PHENOMINAL. All we are missing is a freakish Indo-esk swell event teamed with warm winds. The weather is shot. The surf HASN'T been huge and I am fiending for an insanely large faced wave to ride.

.....Not bad for my first day of vacation in nearly a year and a half....

First Surf Flick:

11-11-11 MAKE A WISH!

                                                                            A BIT HEAVY

5 hours

So Clean

Score.

There's nothing I can say other than "Thank You south of Boston!" While Rhode Island was flat as a lake this was happening. High tide was joined with an intense storm surge, the sun came out, and the wind tapered off mid day to leave us with a little N'oreaster fun. Entirely different beast than the sought after 'hurricane swells'. The sets were relentless. 5 wave sets upon 5 wave sets. Getting stuck on the inside was not fun but well worth the reward. Waves were absolutely everywhere!!!!

 It's a lot bigger than it looks.

 Smaller inside sets would bypass the outer reef and wedge up into some fast pumpable walls which were interacting with refraction that was chucking some good lips.

Later in the day, with the tidal switch, the swell cut down and the break was more in control and playful.

Waves

Shots from last week.

Katia

much more to come....

Feast Or Famine

Get Pitted. Document Everything.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZzhNy7Rdqk


Batten down. Shit could get messy. Sharpen your chainsaw blades, pack your things, anticipate the unknown and never stop charging.

 If you doubt your abilities find a smaller wave to surf and leave the big ones for another day.