Nothing is more exciting than finding a new spot. Nothing beats the feeling of discovery. Nothing beats living a mere 1/4 mile from the beach you surf at. Unfortunately I don't. I drive and drive and drive. Burn that petrol! It's only $3.06 / gal. It was a stormy Saturday afternoon. The surf reports were calling for building swell into the evening and peaking out in the morning. I kept a sharp eye on the cams and the wave heights. Nothing enticed me to shove $20 into my gas tank and put on 30lbs of wetsuit.
I live in a small town with not much else to do but drive around play music and skate. So I got to driving around. Little did I know I should have had my boards and my suit with me. I have always had dreams of surfing my harbor town. I never fathomed it would actually work. I never imagined I would see what I saw.
There it was! solid waist + high reeling along a man made pier. I was in shock as the sets kept increasing in size and consistency. Incoming tide was forcing lines to pile up perfectly along this stone wall. I watched in awe. I noted the conditions in case it would happen again. I had only seen this spot break during hurricane Bob and a few others. It never lined up like this however. The take off was sketch RIGHT next to the pier. Maybe a 20 yard section. I was satisfied just to watch it work. If I had gone home to grab my things it would have been dark by the time I returned to jump in. It looked like a great time for a long board. I still can't believe it. A bit choppy, not so clean, but RIDE ABLE! Next time.......
