Secret Stash:

We all have one or two of our slabby secrets tucked away for that oh so special swell angle when everywhere else is less than mediocre...it's gems like this wave that keeps my hunger for exploration alive. Biggest payout I've had in years. Shot this after a 2.5hr session. Unfortunately I forgot my water housing so all you get to see is the aftermath of a 2.5hr barrel spree I won't soon forget. Not the best photo....but your mind can do the rest of the work. Wave starts slow and rollie then the face steps down into a steep wall of intense tubeness. Most waves didn't look makeable until you put on the gas and checked into the pocket.


Somewhere between Montauk, NY and Portland, ME

CENSORED!