More from "the archives"

Drove around forever to get these shots...

Full Circle.

Not-so recent activity: Been traveling a bit to the left coast. Waves were chest high for two weeks. Still been frothing over my Jersey score from earlier this year. Jetty sensations. Finally hot-coated and rode the single fin pocket rocket. This board is so fun in chest high surf. So much drive and retro flow. Some shots from "the archives": And remember…..next time you surf with 30 people, somewhere in this country there is someone surfing with 300 people. And they are more stoked than you? Can't be. Stop the padded fist fights and keep your composure dammit. Remember the way of the surfer. But if you don't choose the dark side expect to get your hand lopped off and replaced by a sweet robot arm. Much like Luke Skywalkers…...

Holidays…...

Things are picking up as far as Ocean activity goes. This passed Sunday I was working 200+ miles out at George's bank. In 15 foot NW swells as well as 50mph gusts and near white out blizzard conditions, moving a 95lb lobster trap around the deck of a 75ft hi-liner in 15ft seas was cross-training at its finest. Just something I keep on my mind to prevent me from going crazy while we're out on our week long trips. Tried to get the go pro out but the battery was drained(turned itself on in the night's 15-20ft beating). Sitting on watch was like being on a roller coaster. The walls of water would roll gently and as the boat slammed through the peak of each approaching wave would careen down the steep wind driven face of the backside of the wave. Twenty seven hours later we made enough headway out of the fetch and seas tapered down; about 6-12ft. At one point in the first leg of the journey home I woke up mid-air and had to shove myself back into my top bunk off of the ceiling. Great fun. We had waves on Thanksgiving again! here are some shots from various sources. Hopefully the wave machine stays on. Our tropical season was WAY too quiet. TOOOOOO quiet. Ten years ago there was a winter. In that winter there were 3 low pressure systems per week producing world class surf on all reaches of New England. Hopefully we're back in that pattern. Stay warm. Photo credit: T. Hinman

Last night will hold a solid vision burned in my mind for years to come. Every bit of my being has been affected by what I experienced. It has felt like AGES since this feeling has come to resonate within the heart of my soul. Surfing is pure nature. Aside from our man made devices we ride upon, the act of surfing is the act of immersing yourself in Nature. The horizon was worth writing innumerable words of its cherry hue as the Ocean reflected and churned. All the while, solid and consistent waist to head high groundswell swept over one of my favorite reefs. One hour later, three people in the lineup and we were all stoked. Wave counts were maxed out. Solid head high runners for hours. Barrel sections, air sections, the surf was getting better. The sun was dropping, the lighting was f*cking surreal! The sky turned all shades of yellow to orange finishing with reds to fluorescent pink to greyed out purples accented by an offshore storm-front. If this wasn't good enough, the entire session was in full double-rainbow over the horizon, "holy shit nature is making me so f*cking high on life" fairy-tale land. I think they call these mystical experiences. This is why it all started for me and it's taken almost thirteen years to understand this. Charged. I can only begin to describe the plateau of bliss I was on for those two to two and a half hours of surf. All natural liquid molding and bending over reef, uninterrupted. Hooked. For life. Have been, will be always wanting more. JB

"That's not rideable" = B.S. Bad Attitudes = You look like a fucking joke.

One thing is for sure. There's all ways a way to shred. Whether it be your favorite Sunday times news paper out of flat-spell low interval mushy surf driven frustration or mind bending the crap out of something on a skateboard. Never say "it's not rideable". I will never forget my first experience on my 5'6" Vec shaped for me years ago. It's virtually bullet proof and is still water tight! There's all ways something to shred somewhere. I can surf 1/2 a foot to over-head on that 5'6" x 19.25" x 2 5/8" magic carpet!! We all can't make it to our favorite liquid ramps all the time. So if you can't rip, tear or shred a turn at your favorite break you can try a VAST ARRAY OF OPTIONS. 1. Tearing up Sunday's paper 2. Ripping up your favorite paper- back novella 3. Shredding some confidential documents at the work place 4. Slaying some epic cuisine 5. IF YOU SURF AND DON'T SKATEBOARD YOU NEED TO START (it may be the key to re claiming your surf-fever driven insanity!!!!) 6. Crank an attitude as a local scene-ster! (way too much localism going on lately!) Shots from the weekend: Franken-ramp keeps expanding. "Oh damn, a wall ride mini full-bowl!?....no WAY is the transition rideable!" "So rideable!" J A gets a ton of props(and should from everyone) for the continuous blood sweat tears and man hours he's put into this ramp.(not to mention his great surf etiquette!) He is the man. If you see him in the water you should let him know how fucking Newport and local he is.