Saturday, December 14, 2013

Full Circle.

Not-so recent activity: Been traveling a bit to the left coast. Waves were chest high for two weeks. Still been frothing over my Jersey score from earlier this year. Jetty sensations. Finally hot-coated and rode the single fin pocket rocket. This board is so fun in chest high surf. So much drive and retro flow. Some shots from "the archives": And remember…..next time you surf with 30 people, somewhere in this country there is someone surfing with 300 people. And they are more stoked than you? Can't be. Stop the padded fist fights and keep your composure dammit. Remember the way of the surfer. But if you don't choose the dark side expect to get your hand lopped off and replaced by a sweet robot arm. Much like Luke Skywalkers…...