Friday, February 17, 2012

Frothing......

We exchanged epic winter swell for a 40-50 degree avg. Feb.?
We never got a choice.
It's been nice
but I sure do prefer falling onto a liquid ramp
versus
eating shit
on a 13ft vert ramp
This has not been a poem.


Monday, February 13, 2012

Get on that!

Black ink + photoshop
7:00AM Sunday morning. Woke up. Coastguard cam looked like blown out garbage. Debated. Rhode Island looked like a lake. Attempted to motivate. Went back to sleep. Phone buzzed. 9:30AM WAVES in strange places I was told. An hour later I was surfing somewhere most will never.  Good day of travel, hunting, and scores. ?? Gotta love it. Most say So. Shore, MA is under rated..... I'd say it has it's days.


Some Secrets are best kept that way....

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Through the Iris of the Sun



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja3LGFY1i0o


We are all merely reflections. Vibrations. Waves of energy. The structural composition of an atom is proportionately scale to that of our solar system. That is, in fact, the distance from electrons, nuclei, etc. is proportional to that of the distance of planets to our sun. Strange to think of it. We are part of an ongoing wave. Why do huge storms happen? Is it all just a coincidence or could it be OUR expectations manifesting into an epic swell event? Our minds, our thoughts are the film to this projection of reality. Similar vibrations are naturally drawn together in our Universe There are many nay sayers out there which confide in the comfort of societical views of "what is supposed to be possible" vs. "What COULD be possible". Maybe there are limitless possibilites. Maybe OUR minds are truly the one precious posession we have in this. KNOW the storm will come. KNOW the swell will be. Know you can fly. Believe you can make that barrel section.

Caged and burning for a shred sesh.