W. T. F. !?!?

I'm not complaining. Personally the weather has been phenominal. Why are you reading this? I'm caged in a 6 x 8 foot cube until 5 p.m. every weekday. Sure I could squeeze a dawn session in, then again, buisiness and wetsuit stench don't mesh in too well. Hope everyone has been scoring. For the first time in my life I have the neccessity of being a "weekend warrior". I'm not happy about it but that just means training after work. Here's to long hours of Skateboarding and Yoga all for the betterment of my mind, body, soul, and surfing.
       I saw 60 degrees today 12/22/11 and THIS IS PHENOMINAL. All we are missing is a freakish Indo-esk swell event teamed with warm winds. The weather is shot. The surf HASN'T been huge and I am fiending for an insanely large faced wave to ride.

.....Not bad for my first day of vacation in nearly a year and a half....

First Surf Flick:

11-11-11 MAKE A WISH!

                                                                            A BIT HEAVY

5 hours

So Clean

Score.

There's nothing I can say other than "Thank You south of Boston!" While Rhode Island was flat as a lake this was happening. High tide was joined with an intense storm surge, the sun came out, and the wind tapered off mid day to leave us with a little N'oreaster fun. Entirely different beast than the sought after 'hurricane swells'. The sets were relentless. 5 wave sets upon 5 wave sets. Getting stuck on the inside was not fun but well worth the reward. Waves were absolutely everywhere!!!!

 It's a lot bigger than it looks.

 Smaller inside sets would bypass the outer reef and wedge up into some fast pumpable walls which were interacting with refraction that was chucking some good lips.

Later in the day, with the tidal switch, the swell cut down and the break was more in control and playful.

Waves

Shots from last week.

Katia

much more to come....

Feast Or Famine

Get Pitted. Document Everything.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZzhNy7Rdqk


Batten down. Shit could get messy. Sharpen your chainsaw blades, pack your things, anticipate the unknown and never stop charging.

 If you doubt your abilities find a smaller wave to surf and leave the big ones for another day.

Surf Side Days, Great White Ways

Surfing in N.E. has been a past time I've enjoyed for well over a decade now. It started with my love for the Ocean as a small boy and slowly I found my own way to the beach with a board in hand. We're all nuts...the ones who surf year round, that is, can only describe a fractional amount of what it truly is to be a year round surfer here. The lone and desolate snow drifted and windswept beauty of places most people would not even think of heading to in the peak of a blizzard are what keeps me coming back time and time again. Not only that but the isolation never gets old. The feeling of being swallowed by a dark pit seeking refuge from howling 35kt offshore winds and 22 degree wind chills present an exceptonal challenge to even the most physically fit of people. Lately things have been quiet. Swells have come and gone, not so large. We are on the cusp of what I believe to be the
true season for surf in N.E. FALL/ WINTER. It has been nice shedding a few pounds of neoprene. Yet, the thought of Jaws is forever burnt into my mind when I paddle out. Surfed Just north of Chatham this past weekend and even though the water was clear I couldn't help but to have the theme song to "Jaws" drumming through my mind with every stroke I took.

We'll take what we can get and we'll like it too damnit.

My, my, Hello Ms. Emily!

Possible gnar status.