There's not much that can compare to large powerful waves. The ebb and flow of the tides and the effect it has on open ocean swells; knocking swell intervals down and picking them up as they come and go. It's easy to be and feel like a surfer when there's surf to be had. It's easier to associate. It's easier to feel whole and connected. What if this connection never had to fade? What if you could feel the bliss of riding a heaving barrel walking down the street? Would it satisfy the addiction to liquid ramps and houses we all share? Would it suffice? It might come close. Nothing is as good as the real thing. Lately, in the past year or so, I put down my kung-fu practice(Baqua, Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, Al Pako Kenpo) and began practicing Yoga. My reason? Revolution Evolution!
I know the concept is blasphemous for some closed minded religious views that deny the existence of such a thing but they're wrong. Evolution does exist and it's taking place right now. It takes place each and every time I hit the water!(YOU TOO!) My body, over the past 13 years of surfing, has formed a defense mechanism. It's called surfer's ear which is skin growth over the inner ear canal. The reason? To keep the water out! Wear ear plugs! They'll keep you warm and you'll spare yourself a trip to the doctors to get the skin scraped out of your ears.
In retrospect to the evolution of surfing, it has reached pivotal points of progression along the way. When these points of change occur it's been surfboard design that has led the charge in the evolution revolution allowing the physical surfer to shred harder with more progressive moves. Today the surfboard has been engineered to perfection. Fin selection has come light years from where it once was and this has demanded higher performance from us, the surfers. So what happens now? what happens when we've evolved our wave riding devices as far as they can go? If you said that the surfer's physical being is next to evolve YOU'RE CORRECT! But how? How can you contribute to the evolution of physicality?? My answer was brought to me a year ago when Yoga came to me.
Each and every time I hit my Yoga mat I have one thing in mind, positive change. Sure, you may have done some stretching in your lifetime but have you ever done an hour and a half of organ purifying twists, blood swirling inversions, and leg elongating lunges? The first time I stepped on a board after a Yoga class I was charged. Skating or surfing, that board was stuck to my feet. Immediately after I started pulling maneuvers I had only dreamt about as a far off fantasy of what I wished I could do. My wishes were granted by an increase of balance and focus in and out of the water.
So what happens when we push physical evolution of the Surfer to it's peak; to the maximum state of flexibility and performance? Mental evolution comes next. Your attitude, the thoughts you have and keep, the beliefs you have in your own abilities are what need to be mastered. Evolution of mentality falls into two categories: The Believers(+) and The Non-Believers(-), Yin and Yang, Positive and Negative. It's amazing how much a positive attitude makes a difference! Assumptions are the trap and the ability to maintain a happy vibration is the cure. I'm sure we've all experienced this one way or another. What if the surfer could attract to him or her whatever they wanted just by visualizing it? What if you're not getting barreled as much as the others because they're visualizing it before they sleep? What if all that you have to do to surf better is think better by sending the Universe a mental picture of what you want your next wave to be like? That seems like a much better intent than pulling the localism attitude that is prevalent in much of the Surfing in the USA. What if there is only a lack because our thoughts and attitudes have created it? What if everyone could evolve for the better? There is enough to go around and there all ways has been!
Ride The Fire.
JB
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