Do not forget. We are vibrational beings existing within a realm of oscillating particles. Science backs this 100%. Yes, waves. In most situations, especially midst the chaos and churning of a double overhead beating, there are few things we can control. Aside from knowing how to manage a towering beating, the physical aspects. Then, there's the mind. Keep calm and paddle on! Sure, getting the snot washed out of you taking a 10 wave set to the dome in 38 degree water SUCKS! Ice cream headaches and all. Getting angry is only going to make matters worse. A controlled response is the ability to remain calm and heed off the adrenal glands from kicking on full throttle "oh SHIT" mode. Fight or flight, +(positive) or -(negative). Physical exertion or relaxation.
It's an absolute buzz killer to hear someone become frustrated out there. It's surfing. This is supposed to be fun, a great time. NO MATTER WHAT. When it all comes down to it, next time you're out there about to let your kettle fly off the handle, at least you can surf. You've been granted this amazing existence near the coastline. Sure, it's not California but maybe that's what's so special about it. Maybe that's why this is my home. Maybe I can't get enough torture from the cold. Maybe I was born for the frigid desolation of the winter sea. Maybe I embrace the added challenge of 20lbs of 7mm winter gear. This sport will be with me until my grave. This sport has given me more insight, satisfaction and spiritual well being. There's something mysterious about immersing yourself to the depths of winters' frigidity. Something spiritual. There is a recognition from Nature.
What goes through your head when you surf? What do you think about? Are you thinking about how you blew your last take off or missed that last air section? Spun out on a bottom turn and get flushed out? Perhaps you ran your favorite 6'-0" into the rocks rendering it out of commission for good. It can be a bummer the first time you destroy a $400-$700 board. Especially if it's your only one. You have a choice here, you can start freaking out, or you can do what any happy go lucky surfer would do. Do something about it.
I'll never forget the first board I broke. My second season of winter freeze, I arrived at my favorite right hand point. It was absolutely mind blowing. Haven't seen it like that since. It was gargantuan lit up by the sunrise. Just heavenly. Calling me. Taunting me and beckoning me to paddle out. I was alone and only had one board. The paddle out was quick and my hair didn't even get wet. The lighting at dawn was magic. Pink hues diminished and refracted in the triangular rhythms of the oceans wind etched surface. The sets were most unforgiving. The consequence was a 300 yard drag from the outside. They were epic. Reeling from the head of the point all the way through. Faces big enough to count your turns, specifically 2-3 barrel sections and a whole lot of room to hack away.
My session was unreal. I didn't feel alone. The Ocean set a hook in proper fashion that day. I was about 10 waves into it. 7, 8, 9 turn waves, air drop floater sections. Unreal fun and friendly big surf. I just remember feeling so free. I got cocky and hung a big too long through a floater and was thinking, "this is crazy, should I bail? I think I can make this, no don't bail, fly!", so I kinda popped this ollie from this chunky lip and kinda catch the wind under my board. I tried to cushion the impact. It was probably an 11ft wave. The landing was perfect. SNAP! I came to a stop instantly legs split wide open. Victory was taken from my hands. My friend, the Ocean kicked my ass for about a hundred yards chest down in front of the wash. It wouldn't spit me out. Finally I feel into a channel and got spit off. I came to the surface and there was half of my board. What a ride though. I'd happily sacrifice any board for another session like that one!!!! Even for just one 10 turn, 3 barrel wave!
I paddled in. Smiling all the way to my car. Didn't see the rest of my board wash up, was greeted by a local with just beaming with positive energy. "I saw that whole thing that was awesome!!!! Do you have another board!?!?", I didn't, Said I would be back in about an hour and a half, took my suit half off and began the trek home to grab not one, but two boards. It was satisfying to break that thing. A welcoming to a truly challenging sport and a fresh spiritual awareness in life. You could say my 'chapel' is made from liquid forged by the wind. Stay +
Namaste.
JB
It's an absolute buzz killer to hear someone become frustrated out there. It's surfing. This is supposed to be fun, a great time. NO MATTER WHAT. When it all comes down to it, next time you're out there about to let your kettle fly off the handle, at least you can surf. You've been granted this amazing existence near the coastline. Sure, it's not California but maybe that's what's so special about it. Maybe that's why this is my home. Maybe I can't get enough torture from the cold. Maybe I was born for the frigid desolation of the winter sea. Maybe I embrace the added challenge of 20lbs of 7mm winter gear. This sport will be with me until my grave. This sport has given me more insight, satisfaction and spiritual well being. There's something mysterious about immersing yourself to the depths of winters' frigidity. Something spiritual. There is a recognition from Nature.
What goes through your head when you surf? What do you think about? Are you thinking about how you blew your last take off or missed that last air section? Spun out on a bottom turn and get flushed out? Perhaps you ran your favorite 6'-0" into the rocks rendering it out of commission for good. It can be a bummer the first time you destroy a $400-$700 board. Especially if it's your only one. You have a choice here, you can start freaking out, or you can do what any happy go lucky surfer would do. Do something about it.
I'll never forget the first board I broke. My second season of winter freeze, I arrived at my favorite right hand point. It was absolutely mind blowing. Haven't seen it like that since. It was gargantuan lit up by the sunrise. Just heavenly. Calling me. Taunting me and beckoning me to paddle out. I was alone and only had one board. The paddle out was quick and my hair didn't even get wet. The lighting at dawn was magic. Pink hues diminished and refracted in the triangular rhythms of the oceans wind etched surface. The sets were most unforgiving. The consequence was a 300 yard drag from the outside. They were epic. Reeling from the head of the point all the way through. Faces big enough to count your turns, specifically 2-3 barrel sections and a whole lot of room to hack away.
My session was unreal. I didn't feel alone. The Ocean set a hook in proper fashion that day. I was about 10 waves into it. 7, 8, 9 turn waves, air drop floater sections. Unreal fun and friendly big surf. I just remember feeling so free. I got cocky and hung a big too long through a floater and was thinking, "this is crazy, should I bail? I think I can make this, no don't bail, fly!", so I kinda popped this ollie from this chunky lip and kinda catch the wind under my board. I tried to cushion the impact. It was probably an 11ft wave. The landing was perfect. SNAP! I came to a stop instantly legs split wide open. Victory was taken from my hands. My friend, the Ocean kicked my ass for about a hundred yards chest down in front of the wash. It wouldn't spit me out. Finally I feel into a channel and got spit off. I came to the surface and there was half of my board. What a ride though. I'd happily sacrifice any board for another session like that one!!!! Even for just one 10 turn, 3 barrel wave!
I paddled in. Smiling all the way to my car. Didn't see the rest of my board wash up, was greeted by a local with just beaming with positive energy. "I saw that whole thing that was awesome!!!! Do you have another board!?!?", I didn't, Said I would be back in about an hour and a half, took my suit half off and began the trek home to grab not one, but two boards. It was satisfying to break that thing. A welcoming to a truly challenging sport and a fresh spiritual awareness in life. You could say my 'chapel' is made from liquid forged by the wind. Stay +
Namaste.
JB
