Thursday, January 20, 2011

Flatness

     There's nothing worse than a swell-less Ocean. In times of flatness I'd do almost anything to have 6-12ft @ 13 seconds. You have to look on the bright side of things though. We got a good amount of snow to play around with. I don't know about you but I love snowboarding just about as much as surfing. Backyard setups are something I love almost as much as charging through a glade in 3 feet of fresh powder. Just the thing to take my mind off the flatness. Just as the novelty of our make-shift quarter pipe wall ride and mini step down wore off a swell found its way to the coastline. I love how different swells turn a familliar break into a shifty mind game. Hopefully we're falling into a bit more of an active weather pattern from here on out. Where's the epic winter swell???? JB




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